Method of weaving tissue figured fabric and resulting woven fabric



July 6, 1937. |A C, KLOECKENER 2,086,505

METHOD OF WEAVING TISSUE FIGURED FABRIC AND RESULTIMG WOVEN FABRIC FiledJan. 5l, 1934 s a a s u I? INVENTOR Patented July 6, 1937 NETE@ STATESrimasti PATENT @FFICE METHOD 0F WEAVNG TllSSUlE FIGURED FABRE@ ANDRESULTING WOVEN FAB- RHC Application `anuary 3l, 1934, Serial No.709,085

2 Claims.

VMy present invention relates to fabrics and more particularly to animproved method of producing so-called tissue (or tissue-over) figuresupon woven fabrics and a fabric containing tissue figures.

Tissue figures as known in the art of weaving are figures where threadsthat are not part of the main weave, are embodied into such weave sothat they by floating on the surface of same, form decorative effects orfigures. These figures are utilized for various purposes, especially soin true multi-colored brocade weaves, also in necktie silks as well asin various smaller fields of textile production. All tissue figures usedin these trades are produced through the introduction of additionalshuttles on the loom producing such weaves as described below. On veryrare occasions the tissue figures on brocades for drapery purposes havebeen produced through additional warpthreads, such warp threads usuallybeing clipped off by hand or machine on the reverse side of the fabricso that the tissue figure forming threads are incorporated only in suchpart of the design where they are called for on the face of the fabric.Such practice of clipping the tissue forming threads on the reverse sideof the goods, While not absolutely necessary, is followed because of thedanger of such loosely iioating threads on the reverse side of thefabric being pulled very easily in the handling of the cloth, in whichoase the decorative effect on` the face of the goods is pulled anddestroyed.

It is well known that heretofore essentially all tissue decoratingfigures have been produced in the art through weaving a ground weavewith one shuttle and by using another shuttle that, usually alternating`with the iirst shuttle, produces a figure the size and shape of which iscontrolled through the harness or Jacquard harness employed in the loom,by laying floating threads over the surface of the cloth which areintroduced by the shuttle containing the tissue thread into the weave inbetween every pick of the shuttle that produces the ground weave. Whilethe tissue figure producing shuttle introduces its filling into theweave the drawing-olf mechanism (or regulator) of the loom does not work-so that the reed of the loom tends to shove the lioats produced by thetissue shuttle to the face of the goods. In other words, when countingwith a suitable glass the ground picks of a weave as just described, thenumber of ground fillings introduced by the ground shuttle will besubstantially even at any place of the Weave and of substantialregularity as to the intervals between each filling thread.

A weave as just described can also be produced by a single shuttle inwhich case the single shuttle when producing the tissue gures works insuch a manner that the regulator of the loom does not draw oli the weavewhile the pick that produces the tissue figures is beaten up by thereed.

Such tissue weaves as known, for instance in neckwear silks, arecommercially produced as above described but are also made with morethan two shuttles so that in a yarn dyed construction of such neckwearsilk there are employed apart from the ground shuttle, two and three ormore tissue shuttles that produce socalled tissue figures in two, three,or more colors on the surface of the weave. In each case where suchtissue carrying shuttles are operating, the regulator of the loom isusually not operated. There are circumstances, particularly when thedensity of the filling threads is too high, where the regulator may drawolf the weave; this is true even when a tissue thread yis introducedinto the weave.

It is readily seen from the above that the density of filling threadsrequired for the production of a sightly tissue decorated piece of silkis very high in that generally only every second thread can be used forthe production of tissue figures. Commercially therefore a tissuefigured silk weave carriesin the average filling threads to an amount of9D and up to 180 threads per inch. The producing capacity of a loomweaving such tissue fabrics is therefore markedly low when compared withother silks that range from 40 and seldom over 120 picks per inch. Y

In embodying the filling threads that form the tissue in the'standardtissue weave, provision must be made that these threads are properlyincorporated into the weave so that they will have a marked spreadingeifect at those points where they form the tissue figures and so thatwhen they fioat on the back of the goods they are held with suflicienttightness to prevent them from being subjected to pull or tear, in, forinstance, a necktie, where on improperly Woven tissue weaves the pullsand tears are liable to draw tight the threads in the places where theyform the tissue figure on the surface of the goods, thereby destroyingthe value and beauty of such tissue ligure. The usual way of thussafeguarding the floating tissue threads on theback of the goods is totie them into the ground weave in such a Way that these tying points donot show on the surface of the weave. To make such tissue filling hidein its tying points from the surface of the weave, requires a certainminimum density of the warp, a fact which is well known in the art.

It is well known in the art that through selection of weave inconjunction with stoppage of the regulator no particular difficulty isexperienced in hiding tissue filling points from the obverse face of atissue filling decorated fabric. However, the stopping of the regulatorto permit the tissue thread to disappear in its tying points on the backof the goods, is not available when constructing weaves with tissueiigures, formed through additional warp threads which means tissue warpthreads that in their position to the finished weave are vertical to theposition of the tissue filling threads known in the art on a groundweave, and the merit and newness of the present invention reside also inthe fact that a iethod has been developed that permits the hiding of thetying points from. the face of the weave that is decorated with warptissue iigures.

lilly invention relates to the production of such tissue figures byusing added warp threads upon woven fabrics' and in which fabrics thetissue forming threads are so incorporated into the warp of the fabricas to produce a fabric that can be woven with many less picks than theusual tissue fabric, which is produced only with filling tissue figures,and thereby decreasing its cost of manufacture most pronouncedly. Warptissue fabric made in accordance with my invention may be subjected touse and wear without injury to the tissue gures thereon.

Therefore: ari object of my invention is an improved method of weaving awarp tissue decorated fabric.

An object of my invention is an improved warp tissue fabric which whilebeing very much cheaper to produce than the filling tissue kguresheretofore produced, possesses `high wearing merit.

Further features and objects of the invention will be more fullyunderstood from the following detailed description and the accompanyingdrawing, in which Figure l illustrates the obverse face side of a pieceof Woven fabric with tissue figures thereon produced according to myinvention;

Figure 2 is an enlarged view of the obverse face side of a piece ofwoven fabric with tissue figures thereon and with certain parts brokenaway to illustrate my improved fabric and method of producing the same;

Figure 3 is a vertical section on the line 3--3 of Figure 2;

Figure 4 is a section on the line 1 -4 of Figure 2;

Figure 5 is a section on the line 5-5 of Figure 2; and

Figure 6 is a reverse face view of the fabric shown in Figure 2.

Referring to the drawing, there is shown in Fig. l a piece of wovenfabric lil, having on the obverse face thereof the tissue figures H andi2, and the ground warp figures i3, all these iigures being distributedover the surface of the fabric lil. In the illustrated embodiment thetissue figures li and l2, in conjunction with the ground warp figuresi3, make up the design appearing on the obverse face of the fabric l5;such design may be varied as occasion or necessity may require, and thedesign shown is merely illustrative of but one embodiment of myinvention.

Both tissue figures M and I2 are composed of warp threads that are addedto the warp threads that form the ground weave, the latter warp threadsbeing of even density throughout the width of the fabric. These twodifferent sets of warp threads may according to design be warped on oneor more beams. In other words, in contrast to the existing tissuedecorated fabrics which in their tissue effect are formed only byfloating threads of the filling that is furnished usually by one or moreadditional shuttles, in my invention the tissue forming threads arelocated not inthe filling of the weave but in the warp of the weave. Inthis way I am able to produce designs as complex as desired by means ofrelatively simple weaving apparatus, which means by a single shuttleloom in contrast to a multi-shuttle loom used at present in the artwhich is usually equipped to operate up to seven shuttles. X

Being able as shown below, to avoid the showing of the tying points ofthe warp tissue threads on the surface of the goods, it will be seenthat the decorative value of a fabric Woven according to my invention isno longer dependent upon a large number of shuttles and particularly andconsequently upon the high number of picks predicated by such number ofshuttles. trast with the established method it is well possible to weaveaccording to my invention a highly decorated tissue fabric with as lowas forty to fifty picks, thereby increasing the productive capacitybetween three and four times over the amount produceable by the methodof producing tissue decorating figures with tissue carrying shuttle andbringing about such productive capacity on a loom that is simpler tooperate and consequently cheaper in the manufacture of such weaves.

A fabric made in accordance with my invention is afforded a doublewearing face, termed herein as obverse and reverse faces, and has thefurther advantage that the means for tying the extra Warp threads to thebody of the fabric do not show on the obverse face thereof. Referring toFig. 2, which is an enlarged face view of a portion of Fig. l, the Warpthreads of the ground warp are designated ill, and those of the extra,tissue forming, Warp threads, are marked I5, from which the tissuefigures li and l2 are formed. The threads carried into the weave by thesingle shuttle required to produce it, are designated by the referencecharacter I6 and are used not only in forming the weave of the groundwarp but also as a means to tie or otherwise secur-e to this ground warpweave the extra warp threads from which the tissue figures Il and l2 areformed.

The method of making the tissue iigures Il and l2 from the extra warpthreads l5, as well as the decorative figures i3 that are formed by theground warp threads li will be apparent from a study of the illustratedembodiment shown in Figures 3, 4, and 5, taken in connection with Figure2. It will be seen that the number of extra Warp threads i5, isdetermined by the total width of tissue decorating iigures. il and Itand that consequently any desired width of tissue decorating figures canbe embodied in a weave made according to my invention. It is equallyapparent that these tissue warp threads can be uniform or of differentcolors in relation to themselves as well as the color of the groundwarp.

In con- Referring to Figure 4, which is a sectional view of the line4--4 of Figure 2, looking in the direction of the applied arrows, itwill be seen that the warp threads I4 are arranged alternately above andbelow the weft threads I6, across the width of the fabric IB. Also, thatthe extra tissue warp threads I5 are arranged in groups, those groupsthat are above the warp threads I4 representing the tissue figures IZ cnthe obverse face of the fabric I0, while the groups below the warpthreads Ill represent the length of the tissue warp threads I5 that arelocated on the reverse face of the fabric. The appearance of the tissuewarp threads I5 on the obverse 0r reverse side of the weave is regulatedthrough the weave forming mechanism as designed.

As indicated above, pursuant to my invention, I arrange to tie orotherwise secure, threads I5 to the fabric In by means of a weft orshuttle thread I6 as indicated by the reference character I'I in Figure2, and as also clearly shown in Figure 4. As appears in Figure 2, thetissue warp threads I5 in the weave illustrated are caught up in pairsand to obviate that such threads be visible on the obverse face of thefabric II), I arrange the ground warp figure I3 on the obverse face ofthe fabric I in such a way that the iioating ground warp threads Ill insuch figures I3, cover the tying points il. The ground warp gures i3,are so arranged throughout the obverse face of the fabric I as to retainand cover all of the pointsII. The appearance of the reverse face offabric ID is shown in Figure 6 and it will be noted that the tyingpoints I'I for the tissue warp threads I are sufficiently numerous tothoroughly incorporate such threads in the weave of the fabric. Theresulting fabric therefore has in substance two wearing faces and may beused in situations where both faces are subject to wear.

In general, the tissue figures are formed in the obverse face of theresulting fabric by the employment of so-deiined extra warp threads andadditional figures are formed on the obverse face by the utilization ofthe regular warp threads, such additional figures being utilized as ameans of ornamentation or as a, combined means of ornamentation andcovering for the tying points of the defined extra warp threads.

The extra warp threads are preferably, though not necessarily, of adifferent color from the regular warp threads or from the weft threads,in order that the tissue figures made by such extra warp threads shallstand out from the background formed from the regular Warp and weftthreads.

To those skilled in the art it is obvious that by careful study a largevariety of weaves are available that will if properly applied, accordingto my invention, hide the tying points of the warp tissue threads fromthe obverse face of the goods.

I claim:

l. An improved tissue gured fabric comprising a weave composed ofregular warp and weft threads, and having extra warp threads arranged ingroups across the width of the fabric, tissue figures formed on theobverse face of the fabric by the extra warp threads, tying the floatingportion of the extra warp threads extending between the tissue figuresand on the reverse face of the weave to the weave at a plurality ofpoints across the groups of said extra Warp threads by means of the weftthreads, and having the tie points of the extra warp threads hidden fromView on the obverse face of the fabric by floating figures formed ofregular warp threads.

2. An improved tissue figured fabric comprising a weave composed of theregular warp and weft threads, and having extra warp threads arranged ingroups being parallel to each other and parallel to the lengths of thefabric, tissue figures formed on the obverse face of the fabric by theextra warp threads and with the fioating portion of said extra warpthreads on the reverse face of the weave tied to the weave at aplurality of points across the groups of extra warp threads bysuccessively picking up the individual threads of the extra warp threadsat a plurality of points between the tissue gures by means of the weftthreads, and covering the normally exposed tie points of the floatingportion of the extra Warp threads on the face of the fabric by means offloating figures on the obverse face of the fabric by floating figuresformed of the warp threads.

l FRITZ C. KLOECKENER.

